22nd -23 rd July

Up early and heading for the border.  Today is the day we have been looking forward to – entering the Kimberleys.  It is a beautiful morning all though cool for this area and we are on the road by 7:30am.  The road is clear and almost lonely.  It is great to travel at this time although I confess to enjoying the sleep ins too.

Our target is Lake Argyle although we have no guarantee of getting a camp site there, hence our early start.  Ian has so wanted to see the Ord River and the dam and this lake is the one formed by the Ord River Dam.

We were blessed again with a great run down the highway.  About an hour out and we were directed down a side diversion where a bridge was being repaired.  The water truck had just been through and he had done a very, very, very good job.  Mud all over the van.  We stopped for a break just up the road and were told that just after we had gone through a road train had jacknifed his last trailer and closed the road down.  We were glad we had made the early start.

The side road which was closed soon after we passed.

At the WA border we went through quarantine.  No fresh fruit, vegetables or honey area allowed over into WA but Alice had worked it all out perfectly and we were free of stock by this point. 

Just 7 klms into WA and we turned up the road to the dam.  The scenery right along the road this morning was amazing as we passed between  beautiful maintain ranges and escarpments.  The centre of Australia is truly wonderful and it has taken all my life to get to see it.  Our first view of the Ord was a fast flowing stream that we had to cross.  A few cars were parked on the side of the road so we stopped too.  Just metres from the road lay one sleeping crocodile.  They said there a few others too but we were on a mission and had to keep moving.

Imagine a road lined with views like this.

Then to Lake Argyle and we did get a campsite.  Having set up we were ready to explore and I don’t think we were ready for what we were about to see.

This lake is the largest man made lake in Australia.  Yet the dam wall was much shorter than I had imagined.  The wall is built with a black clay core coated in rock.  There is no concrete as this area is on a fault line and earthquakes are a possibility.  Concrete could crack however the clay can flex.  Black clay expands as it absorbs and retains moisture so it becomes impermeable.  The balance of the dam is made up of natural mountain ranges.

Just the start

Below the dam wallfrom the wall.



Water around every corner



What a view from the pool.

It really is a picturesque place and we enjoyed exploring the area.  There are an amazing number of bird species too much to Alice’s delight.  The dam has developed its own unique nature environment.  It is estimated that there are now 24,000 fresh water crocodiles in the lake.  This does not count those in the Ord river below the dam where they estimate there are a further 6000 between the dam and Kununurra.

One night at the dam and we moved on to Kununurra.  This town is claimed to be one of the youngest towns in Australia.  It supported the construction of the Ord Irrigation Scheme and now supports the ongoing agriculture, tourism and the Argyle Diamond Mine.  First top after setting up camp was the supermarket.  The line up of interstate number plates was enormous as all those who crossed the border & quarantine replenished their fruit & vegetable stocks.  Then we checked out the town lagoon, “Lilly Lagoon” where there were some beautiful photo shops available.  In fact over the first two days we were able to visit the local lakes, the large irrigation farming area and also a special gem “Hidden Valley” which is a National Park which borders the town proper.

Hidden Valley - right behind our camp site

Unique formations - Hidden Valley

No landscaper can match God's creation no matter how clever

A hidden gem in a Hidden Valley!

In the farming area we visited a rum distillery producing from local sugar, and also the new Indian Sandalwood outlet.  From Sandalwood they are producing perfumes, health products, toiletries and carvings.  They state that one tonne can produce up to $100,000 in finished product value and apart from India where the trees are being exhausted this is the only other place in the world where the timber is being produced.  The first harvest is due in two years time when the success of the investment will be proved.

In this area we also saw Chia being produced.  This is a plant originating in South America and it produces health foods as a grain.  Again this is a fledgling industry in Australia.  They are also growing horticultural crops, cotton, rice, mangoes, citrus and more.

Irragation, Chia, Sandlewood & mountain background

At end of day two we arrived at Ivanhoe Crossing, a road crossing of the Ord which used to be the main road from Wyndham.  Normally in the dry season high clearance cars can cross the river (about 150m wide) in about 30 – 45 cm depth.  We have seen this crossing in many documentaries.  This year however after the big wet the road has been closed all year and the 60cm high markers cannot be seen.  The river was pouring over the crossing with enormous power and noise.

Ivanhoe Crossing in flood (all year)

This was end of Day 2 in Kununurra and we are here for 7 days.  There is more to come.  Tomorrow we have booked a cruise up the Ord and we are really looking forward to it.  Hope you like too.