25th – 26th July - Kununurra WA

What a great place this little known area is.  When we tell friends & family we are in Kununurra there is a bit of a silence.  It is not well known and in fact we have been told that the town is less than 50 years old.  It is a thriving area however and there appears to be plenty of jobs for those who wish to work.

Today we boarded a fast boat and travelled 52 klms up the Ord River to the dam wall at Lake Argyle.  This was not only a scenic experience but a chance to learn how the Ord Irrigation Scheme was developed and the manner in which it had impacted the economy of the East Kimberleys.

Our speed cruise - the air conditioning worked well too!

For the boys - 2 200 HP outboards

The river flow is managed by the output of Lake Argyle through spillway overflow and a small hydro electric powerhouse and further down at Kununurra itself by a Diversion Dam.  The Diversion Dam maintains a water level in the Ord to ensure sufficient water can be diverted to the irrigation canals that water the farmland below.  Apart from one small area the whole irrigation system works from gravity without any need for pumps.  Currently the water is flowing down the stream at 70m3 per second.

School is in - no homework thankfully

The one place where water is pumped from the river for irrigation.

The path of the river after leaving the dam flows down between picturesque mountain ranges.  In the first 15 klms the water level drops 10 metres so it is quite fast flowing.  There are few shallow areas however so only in a couple of places does one see any races or white water.  Then for the balance of the 52 klms the stream only drops approximately 2 metres due to the Diversion Dam management.

The Watchman - rock wallaby looks over our activities

One of many beautiful sights.

Elephant Rock - Can you see it?

Environmentally the construction of the dam did have an impact as many shallows or wet lands were changed however in the years since construction the whole environment has changed positively with many new species of birds and fish.  In the 52 klms we travelled there is estimated to be approx 6000 fresh water crocodiles in existence.  The birdlife inhabit the river mostly in the dry season and while the wet season is occurring they spread to other areas to take advantage.  This year there has been such a significant wet period that many of the birds have yet to return to the river.

Life is tough in this environment.

Below the dam wall.

It is so green here after all of the dry country that we have travelled through over the last three months.  Finally we returned back down the river in time to see the sun set over the water.  This is the special time for Alice. 

Tuesday and we set out to visit Wyndham to the north.  The road heads west for about 50 klms and then north for a similar distance to the shores of Cambridge Gulf.  This town is much older then Kununurra and has been the port for the North Kimberleys for many decades.  Apart from the port activities there is little industry and the population is made up mostly of Indigenous peoples.

Alice loves pets but Ian said NO !!!!

On the route we turned off into a wetlands area called Parry’s Lagoon.  This is a significant bird breeding area and a over water walkway and a bird watch have been built for viewing the activity there.  We travelled down some very rough corrugated roads and wondered why we were doing this until we came to the crest of a hill and looked out over this magnificent green marshland.  We then spent the best part of 2 hours watching birds of all descriptions going about their daily activities.  It really was a pleasure.

Parry's Lagoon - Oasis in the desert

From the Bird Hide

Some of the residents.

Once in Wyndham we drove to the top of a nearby range and looked out over the Gulf.  From this great vantage point we could look out to sea (approx 50 klms north) and back south west over the delta of five rivers which feed into the gulf.  By this time of the dry season these rivers are quite slow flowing however during the wet season they are often in flood pouring out across the delta and filling the gulf.  In this area the tides can reach eight metres in height so it is difficult to visualise the impact of the flooding rivers coming up against a high tide.

Looking out from the Bastion towards the delta of the five Kimberley rivers feeding into Cambridge Gulf.

The port still receives some shipping but cannot be reasoned to be a busy port.  However while we were there a ship was entering the port to load iron ore which was mined near the Argyle Diamond mine.  This was a trial shipment and because of the lack of infrastructure the ore was being carted to Wyndham by large four trailer road trains, stockpiled on ground and then loaded by conveyor on to barges.  The ship then anchored off shore in the bay and loaded the ore by crane from the barges.  It really did seem an inefficient means of transfer but it does demonstrate the potential profits in iron ore that can accept such expensive transfer costs.

Road trains carting iron ore to port

Iron ore being loaded onto barges and then to ship!

There is so much to see here in this area and there is so much variation that makes it so very interesting.  Tomorrow we are off to check out the eastern end of the Gibb River Road.